Reduce the risk of damage to your new LX1.* Please read this installation guide and watch the short installation video for years of enjoyment.
*(Of course, if your LX1 ever breaks during installation it is covered under the LX1 2-Year Warranty, but it will take a few days for us to get replacement parts to you).
The pure copper strips in your LX1 are excellent conductors of heat and electricity, but they are also very soft and can tear very easily.
Please leave the corners slightly loose and don't press them down. (It will not cause any shadows and the lights will no fall off). Compressing the corners can cause them, on occasion, to tear. Ok, with that out of the way, please view our installation video.
Please note: While we are working on our LX1 video, we are showing the installation video for our MediaLight products. The installation process is essentially the same, although some features differ between products.
When installing the new LX1 on your display, if you are going around 3 or 4 sides, for example, when your display is on a wall mount:
1) Measure 2 inches from the edge of the display.
2) Start going up the side of the display on the side closest to the USB port, starting from the POWER (plug) END of the strip.
This will make it easy to cut off any excess length when you are done. If your display does not have a USB port, start going up the display on the side closest to the power source, whether it's a power strip or external box as found on some displays. If it's directly in the center, flip a coin. :)
Your lights are covered under a comprehensive 2-year warranty and we cover botched installations, so don't stress too much. If you make a mess of the LX1, just contact us.
If you need to cut extra length from a strip, you can cut it at the white line that crosses every pair of contacts. Cut on the line below:
That should cover everything for installations when the display is on a stand or wall mount.
If your display has uneven surfaces on the back (i.e. the LG or Panasonic OLED "humps,") it's better to leave an air gap and span those gap with a 45° angle than to follow the contours of the display. (I know that it looks like this illustration was made by a 12 year old).
If you follow harsher contours, where the LED beams face away from each other, you can end up with "fanning" or a scalloped look at those positions. It doesn't impact the effectiveness, but the halo won't look as smooth as it could. This also keeps the halo nice and consistent on flush wall mounts. If you are further from the wall, fanning isn't as common.
If you are reading this and totally baffled, please don't fret. Contact me via our chat (lower right of this page). I'll be adding more photos and videos in the coming days. We'll get your LX1 up and running in no time.
Jason Rosenfeld Scenic Labs Makers of LX1 Bias Lighting, MediaLight Bias Lighting and